Monday, October 12, 2009

Cape Cod Capers - PP on the CCRT and other CCTs

Now, that title has you guessing, doesn't it??! As the 'passenger' in the back of Sue's car during the course of our travels was a bike, you may well guess that the above stands for 'Pedal Pushing on the Cape Cod Rail Trail and other Cape Cod Trails'!
I must say I was VERY impressed with the trails on the Cape, and really enjoyed exploring the countryside by bike. Sue was a supportive and encouraging 'coach', each morning suggesting a 'trail of the day', then dropping me off at the trailhead and picking me up at the end of the trail. Sometimes it took as long for her to drive to the pick-up point as it did for me to pedal there... Obviously, trains in the past took a direct route from point A to point B, along a gentle gradient, with NO traffic hold-ups along the way, so it wasn't difficult to see why that should be so....
For those of you familiar with Saanich Peninsula's Lochside Trail, particularly the stretch approaching Matticks' Farm, the Cape Cod Rail Trail is very similar, though somewhat wider, and paved the whole way - definitely the 'leafy lane' kind of trail, particularly striking with fall colours much in evidence. Along the way I encountered some interesting fellow-pedallers, several of whom had retired to their former summer beach cottages - now winterized - from other parts of the States. I gleaned useful local information from these regular CCRT pedallers, plus it was a good excuse to pause and rest awhile.
Head of the Meadows Trail was somewhat different from the CCRT, as it was just a couple of miles long, making its way among scrub-covered sand-dunes, interspersed with bushes sporting brilliant red berries. Once I reached the end of the trail, I noticed another 'trail' which seemed to be heading towards the beach, but as it turned out, it wasn't a trail at all and I was soon bogged down in the sand.. Returning to the official trail, it was an easy pedal back to the trailhead and Coast Guard Beach.
In addition to pedalling along the trails, I also enjoyed exploring some of the residential neighbourhoods, particularly any little lane that caught my fancy. (Who wouldn't be tempted to explore Uncle Abner's Lane, or Aunt Tabitha's Path??) As a result of my explorations, both by bike and on foot, I have a wonderful collection of pictures of Cape Cod cottages - and castles!
Province Lands Trail, at the top end of the Cape, appeared on the map to be a much more challenging trail, but I thought I was up to the challenge (!). Posted signs warned that some parts of the trail were under construction, and I learned later that the plan is to cut out some of the hairpin bends, and eliminate some of the steep hills to make the trail more user friendly. Not sure that I really would have been up to the challenge before the proposed modifications, but as it turned out, that was a moot point anyway;I was stymied in my efforts by a broken chain on the first hill!! Thankfully I was only about half a mile along the trail, so not too far to walk the bike back to the car, oily chain in hand. As the Cape is such a mecca for cyclists, a bike repair shop was easy to find.
The culmination of my Cape Cod Capers of the biking variety was another ride alongside the Cape Cod Canal. We parked the car at Buzzards' Bay, having once again driven across the Bourne Bridge, and enjoyed lunch in the sunshine, beside the rail bridge. The bridge is an unusual structure, bookended by turrets and of sufficient height for a tall ship to pass underneath, yet with the ability to lower the railway track if needed, to allow a train to run along the track to cross over the canal. As we were about to set off along the trail - I on the bike and Sue on foot - a train whistle alerted us to the fact that the bridge was about to lower the railway track, something that obviously doesn't happen too often, so we just timed that right!
Judging by the number of fishermen strung out along the canal bank, this was a good spot for dropping your line in the water, but...... not once did I actually see a fish being landed! Buzzards were much in evidence as well, socializing together on the waterside rocks, but again no sign of a fish ever being caught.... Whether or not they were successful in their efforts, sitting by the water in the sunshine was a pleasant way for both fisherfolk and buzzards to spend an afternoon!

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Cape Cod Capers - Kettle Ponds, Lighthouses and Beaches

Yes, Cape Cod has all of the above - in abundance! The Cape is a glacial deposit that is constantly undergoing natural changes, as winds and water move sand along the shorelines,tearing away one place and building up another. Away from the shorelines, there are many indentations in which ponds, known as kettle ponds, were formed after glaciers receded. We passed many such ponds in our wanderings around the Cape. It seemed that, no matter where we looked, the sun was reflecting off some body of water or another.... if it wasn't a kettle pond, it was an inlet or the ocean itself.
What a variety of beaches we visited! Herring Cove, at the north end of the Cape, had the wildest waves, and it was easy to see why nearby Race Point Light was so necessary. As is the case with so many of the lighthouses on the Cape, there was no access for the general public, so we were just able to gaze from a distance.
The site of the oldest lighthouse, known as either Cape Cod Light or Highland Light, was easily accessible though. The original structure, however, had been taken down and replaced by a newer one. Because the sandy shore is so easily eroded by wind and waves, the new lighthouse was erected some distance farther inland from the shoreline.
The lighthouse closest to where we were staying was, of course, the Chatham Light, guarding the entrance to the harbour, ensuring that vessels don't run aground on the long sandbar that stretches some distance out to sea, down the east side of the harbour. The sandbar was clearly visible from the beach, and the powerful force of the waves has even broken breached the sandbar recently.
The current claim to fame of the beach in front of Chatham Light is that it is shark-infested!! Apparently a great number of seals have moved in, and this has enticed the sharks to come for the easy pickings! As it was a beautiful sunny morning when we were down on the beach, I couldn't resist kicking off my flip-flops and wading into the chilly Atlantic - which actually wasn't too chilly! My time up to my ankles in the waves was brief, and the moment I exited the water, there was a flurry of activity nearby...but thankfully it was just a few seals approaching the beach to see what was going on!
Many of the beaches we visited had interesting names: Head of the Meadows, Longnook, Coast Guard, Great Hollow, Pilgrim Heights and Corn Hill, which gave us a clue as to what had happened there in the past and/or the kind of terrain to expect. As our bag lunch each day was enjoyed at a different beach, we visited a number of beaches then, plus explored others during the day. Many of the beaches were surrounded by fragile sand dunes, with signs erected to discourage people from climbing the dunes, or even from walking on them, for that matter... We were told that much effort has been put forth in recent years, as volunteers have painstakingly planted tufts of grass on the dunes, in hopes of to cutting down on wind erosion. As we drove along, we certainly saw evidence of the power of the wind to shift sand - negotiating our way through a number of mini sand drifts was much like driving through drifting snow on the prairies!

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Cape Cod Capers - Arriving on the Cape

Not sure how many 'capers' I shall get around to relating, but this is the first...
As is the case with getting on and off Vancouver Island, much thought and planning is put into getting on and off Cape Cod, the only difference being that the traveller to the Cape has two bridges - Bourne and Sagamore - rather than ferries to contend with. Add to the mix the fact that the Sagamore Bridge is undergoing repairs, and it's easy to see why good planning is so important. Sue's neighbour, Trudi, whose Cape Cod Beach cottage we were heading to, gave us excellent directions, so that we were able to avoid those dreaded traffic line-ups, and getting on to the Cape was a breeze!
We had breezy weather that day - last Monday, Sept. 28 - and sunshine as well, so as soon as we were across the Bourne Bridge, we wended our way down to the Cape Cod Canal, and the multi-purpose trail running alongside it. This turned out to be an ideal spot for biking - and walking, roller-blading, skate-boarding or whatever you felt like doing - so I wheeled along for some six or seven miles, to rendezvous with Sue at the Sandwich Marina. Making our way through Sandwich, we did encounter some traffic line-ups, but thankfully they were not going our way, but were commuters returning to the mainland after their day of work on the Cape. We learned that for many, living on the Cape is not an option, as it is so expensive....
It was an easy drive up the scenic Mid-Island Highway,, and soon we were at the 'elbow' of the Cape, where Chatham is located. We took an unplanned drive of exploration around Chatham - I misread Trudi's excellent directions! - and were wowed by the huge homes on expansive estates, interspersed with bays and ponds, that we passed along the way. We eventually found ourselves at Squanto Drive, where Trudi's cottage is located. It is nestled down a slight slope, close to the bank of the Oyster River, where we could watch various little sailboats and other craft bobbing around at anchor.
The cottage itself was quite charming! Each of the three bedrooms, and the living room, had its own unique beach/nautical decor, and was so cozy and inviting. In no time at all, we had made ourselves thoroughly at home, preparing a 'gourmet'supper in the well-equipped kitchen...